The ever-shifting ideals surrounding cleavage provide a fascinating lens through which to examine changing attitudes about gender, fashion, and societal norms. Cleavage has oscillated between being a celebrated status symbol to being concealed under layers of fabric, reflecting broader cultural, political, and economic shifts throughout history. This detailed exploration tracks how perceptions of cleavage have evolved, from the opulent décolletages of the pre-1800s to the diverse and liberated styles of the modern era.
1. Pre-1800s: Celebrating the Décolletage
Before the Victorian era, cleavage was not merely accepted; it was celebrated as a marker of sophistication, wealth, and femininity. Women of the aristocracy embraced low-cut dresses that accentuated their décolletage.
Opulent Fashion Statements
- Low-Square Necklines: Dresses dipped daringly low, sometimes exposing the tops of the breasts. Corsets were worn to create a rounded, full look, with fabric and lace adding to the dramatic effect.
- Status Symbol: Cleavage signified wealth and status. Rich fabrics and detailed embroidery drew attention to the neckline, highlighting the wearer’s position in society.
Notable Figures
- Marie Antoinette: The French queen was renowned for flaunting her ample cleavage in court portraits, reinforcing the association of exposed décolletages with aristocratic elegance.
- Queen Mary II: Another historical figure whose portraits reflected the era’s fashion norms, Mary often wore gowns with plunging necklines.
During this period, the exposure of cleavage was viewed more as an aesthetic and social statement rather than a purely sexual one.
2. The Victorian Era: Buttoned Up and Restrained
The arrival of the Victorian era brought a stark shift in fashion ideals, with conservative and puritanical values dominating clothing styles.
Modesty Above All
- High Necklines: Dresses were designed to cover women up to the chin, leaving little skin visible.
- Heavy Drapery and Corsets: While corsets continued to be worn, they emphasized the waist rather than the bust, creating an overall prim and proper silhouette.
Cultural Shockwaves
One of the most infamous examples of Victorian prudishness was the scandal surrounding John Singer Sargent’s Portrait of Madame X (1884). The painting, featuring a woman in a low-cut black dress with a single strap sliding down her shoulder, caused such an uproar in Paris that Sargent had to repaint the strap and eventually leave the city.
Victorian modesty highlighted a societal turn toward repressing overt displays of femininity, associating covered-up fashion with virtue and morality.
3. The 1920s: The Androgynous Look
The roaring twenties ushered in a radical departure from Victorian ideals, with women embracing androgyny as part of a broader cultural rebellion against traditional gender roles.
Flattened Silhouettes
- Bust Flatteners: Women used bandages or specially designed undergarments to flatten their chests, creating a boyish appearance that symbolized freedom and modernity.
- Flapper Fashion: Loose, drop-waist dresses emphasized a flat bust and straight silhouette, signaling a rejection of the voluptuous Victorian ideal.
This era’s fashion celebrated youthful rebellion and marked a cultural pivot toward liberation and individuality.
4. The 1950s: The Return of Curves
The post-war 1950s celebrated a return to traditional femininity, with an emphasis on hourglass figures and full, rounded busts.
Pinup Culture
- Sweater Girls: Icons like Marilyn Monroe and Jane Russell popularized the “sweater girl” look, characterized by snug sweaters that highlighted pointed, prominent busts.
- Bullet Bras: Designed to create a conical silhouette, these bras became a defining feature of the decade’s fashion.
The 1950s idealized the curvaceous, maternal figure, reflecting society’s push for domestic stability and traditional family values after World War II.
5. The 1960s: Feminist Liberation and Braless Freedom
The feminist movement of the 1960s challenged societal expectations, including those related to women’s bodies and clothing.
Rejecting the Bra
- Symbol of Protest: Bras became a symbol of patriarchal oppression. While reports of “bra burnings” were largely exaggerated, many women embraced going braless as an act of liberation.
- Sheer Fabrics: Designers like Yves Saint Laurent created sheer blouses meant to be worn without bras, further emphasizing the era’s embrace of natural femininity.
This period reflected broader cultural shifts toward individual expression and resistance against traditional norms.
6. The 1980s: Power Dressing and Aggressive Sexuality
The 1980s saw women assert themselves in traditionally male-dominated spaces, leading to a fusion of power and sexuality in fashion.
Body Consciousness
- Plunging Necklines: Deep necklines became common as women embraced their sexuality and showcased their bodies.
- Fitness Culture: Toned physiques became fashionable, with cleavage often accentuated by tailored power suits.
Shows like Dallas and Dynasty popularized luxurious lingerie, blending eroticism with the decade’s emphasis on success and ambition.
7. The 2000s: The Push-Up Era
The early 2000s brought an era of unapologetic cleavage, with push-up bras, gel inserts, and padded bras dominating the lingerie industry.
Commercialized Beauty
- Victoria’s Secret Influence: The brand’s rise to prominence solidified the push-up bra as a wardrobe staple.
- Cosmetic Surgery Boom: Breast augmentation became the most popular cosmetic surgery in the U.S., reflecting society’s increasing focus on enhancing cleavage.
Cleavage became synonymous with glamour, confidence, and femininity during this decade.
8. The 2010s and Beyond: Anything Goes
In the current era, there’s no single standard for cleavage. Instead, the focus has shifted toward personal choice and inclusivity.
Celebrating Diversity
- High Necklines and Braless Looks: Both trends coexist, reflecting the diversity of modern fashion.
- Body Positivity: The body positivity movement encourages individuals to embrace their natural shapes, leading to a broader acceptance of various cleavage styles.
This period represents a significant departure from rigid beauty standards, emphasizing freedom of expression and individuality.
Cleavage as a Mirror of Society
The evolution of cleavage ideals offers a fascinating glimpse into the intersection of fashion, culture, and societal values. From the opulence of pre-Victorian gowns to the liberating styles of the modern era, cleavage has been a canvas for societal commentary on femininity, power, and individuality.
As fashion continues to evolve, cleavage remains a dynamic symbol of self-expression, proving that beauty standards are as fluid and multifaceted as the societies that shape them.